RUNWAY REVIEW FROM NY FASHION WEEK FALL 2010: NICOLE MILLER

OVERALL: Miller’s fall show was packed with VIP’s: Patrick McCarthy and Bridget Foley from W and WWD; Glenda Bailey from Harper’s Bazaar, Hamish Bowles from Vogue; Joe Zee and Robbie Myers from Elle. This speaks much about the power of mid range designers spending advertising bucks in the big glossy mags.

Miller left her trademark lady dresses and bridesmaid fare behind, and went for chic New York daywear: leather coats, leather jackets, tight pants, chic chiffon tunics – it was a symphony of textures, leather coats with fabric insets, and “twisted” fabric insets going everywhere – a new play on texturizing and ruching that used bunches of fabric to create play. Her day clothes were superior to her nighttime looks: which were very about the 3 t’s: tiny, tight and tarty – none of them would be flattering on anyone above 16. BUT the leather coats and chiffon tunics were so sharp, we’re going to forget about the dresses. We also love the pieces with mongolian lamb at the neck, placed under jackets – excellent layering options for travel and super cold weather. Good for LA rain! (Global warming presents new wardrobe possibilities!)

OVERALL TREND: Texture! Black leather is back in a big way. Army green comes back after its spring 2010 return and hangs in there for winter. The leather biker jacket moves from dating us to marrying us – it’s that monogamous, it will NOT be rejected! That tight is right sexy urban look with an edge is not going away – and we’re happy about that. This is a real life urban cool girl look – not some designer fantasy. We love the bunched leg warmers at the ankles, over shiney black boots.

COLORS: Black, army green, grey; city prints in army green, red and white pieced into black dresses via diagonal strips.

SHAPES: Slouchy tops, tight bottoms: the classic sexy triangle. Those leather coats were very cigarette: sleek and fitted.

BEAUTY: Red lips, wavy hair – so far, this seems to be fall’s overwhelming beauty story. But we ain’t seen nuthin’ yet. Nicole placed the wavy long locks under black knit skull caps – very urban chic. The models were devoid of eyemakeup. Lips are the new story.

RELEVANCE TO HOLLYWOOD: Sure, a tight black mini is always good for Hollywood club kids But the real story here is Miller’s leathers: coats and jackets. Because she’s always had a reasonable pricepoint, it’s easier to purchase her leathers than Rick Owens! And they don’t look that different! Those leather coats with wool inserts are already on our shopping list for fall – we’d buy them now if we could! They are light but strong – we love the dichotomy.